Defiant Monks

Henry VIII changed all that. In a time of huge upheaval he closed the monasteries, pensioned off the monks and took the properties and valuables. At Jervaulx his men destroyed the church with explosives after the abbot had joined a revolution against him with an army that included 200 men from Masham.

Henry didn’t stop there. He seized the considerable assets of Masham and used them to endow Trinity College, Cambridge. Its current wealth of £1.3 billion is founded on Masham money.

The Peculier court lives on – a Masham group, known as the Four and Twenty, have links to the Peculier, who manage a charitable fund in Masham.  It is also the inspiration for Theakston’s Old Peculier Ale and its trademark which embodies the original spirit of independence.

The sheep sales also continue today with the annual Masham Sheep Fair.

Roman Occupation

Masham’s location is at the intersection of the route from Wensleydale, which forded the river here (follow Millgate to the river to find the old ford), and a Roman road running through the town. There’s a well preserved Roman camp on Roomer Common nearby.

The market cross is a type called a butter cross. Butter and cheese would keep cool on the stone steps on market days. The cross on the pillar is long gone – probably removed during the Commonwealth in the 17th century.

Masham's Old Bones

Under the Little Market Place, where Masham Community Office is located on Cockpit Hill, is a graveyard which has been partly excavated. Discovered by accident when pipes were being laid, the bones reveal another occupation.

Burials found here are laid east/west, which indicates a Christian tradition. Studies of the bones have revealed an Anglo-Scandinavian population was here from the Dark Ages. Yorkshire was, for a long time, part of a Viking kingdom ruled from York, long before England existed.

A plaque on the Community Office commemorates the find. Some of the bones were eventually reburied in the churchyard.

Castles & Kings

Masham’s lords have lived, for the most part, at Swinton – just out of town. They’ve had a chequered past. Lord Scrope of Masham was executed by Henry V on the eve of the campaign which climaxed at Agincourt for plotting treason. The estate was confiscated, but eventually regained.

More recently “Swinton Castle” was bought by Bradford mill owner, Samuel Cunliffe Lister in the 19th century. His heirs, sold off but then reacquired the castle and it’s now a hotel.

The other big landowners were Jervaulx Abbey. Their part of the town was given to the Bruce family (as in Robert Bruce, King of Scots) which is why there is a pub called the Bruce Arms.

Church as Museum

Masham doesn’t have a museum, but the church is a treasure trove of relics and monuments. The stump of an eighth century prayer cross is situated beside the entrance and marks the site of ancient prayer gatherings.

Inside, with stained glass by several notable designers including Harry Stammers, who revived the York Minster glass workshops, and monuments featuring the crab symbol of the Danby family there is much to see.

The big painting over the chancel arch is half the design for the windows of New College chapel in Oxford. Apparently, they chopped off half because it wouldn’t fit! In the chancel is the old parish chest where important documents were kept and on the Wyvill tomb, you can find Old Father Time and a bubble-blowing cherub.

On the tower wall is a Madonna and Child by John Blakey – donated by Theakston’s Brewery in lieu of many years payment for renting the Old Peculier trademark which belongs to the church.

Walk Through Masham's History

Just stand in Masham Market Place and take in the heritage around you. Walk among the clues to stories of the past. Today, Masham’s bi-weekly market is still going strong – browse the stalls on Wednesdays and Saturdays throughout the year, but reflect on markets past and the fact that it’s over 760 years since the first market charter.

On Millgate you can find the school which was originally a Tudor grammar school. Next to it is the old workhouse – now cottages. Behind this is the lock up – Masham’s tiny jail.

Border Teas is one of the few buildings to have kept the high gable of a thatched roof. They used heather in these parts and all the original 13  houses would have had a similar profile.

The Kings Head was originally the excise office where you’d pay your tax. The chip shop is in what was the Lord Nelson hotel – a coaching inn where the post arrived and horse drawn coaches left.

Creativity in the Water

Brewing became a major part of Masham life in the 19th century when Theakston’s, originally based at the Black Bull (now Corks and Cases), and Lightfoot’s, based at the White Bear yard were rivals. The gypsum-filtered water here makes for the creation of a very fine, bright beer as our breweries can evidence.

Creativity is in the water here, with many artists and crafts people choosing to live and work here over the years. The graves of three renowned artists – Julius Caesar Ibbetson, George Cuitt and Reginald Brundritt RA, can be found in the churchyard, plus a tall memorial to Masham composer William Jackson. Even Turner sketched here in 1816.

Today, the area is still home to several artists – glassblowers Tim and Maureen Simon who established Uredale Glass studio here in the 1980’s, pencil artist Nolan Stacey, watercolourists Ian Scott Massie and Simon Palmer, collage artist and gallery owner Josie Beszant, pastel artist Jo Garlick and potter Howard Charles. Former residents have included author and illustrator Priscilla Warner and printmaker Hester Cox.